In the center of the face? That is also bad. Some people call an anvil that is damaged as badly as this one is a "Doorstop", because that's about all it's good for.Īgain, note that the edges are all chipped away on both the near and the far sides. It would be pretty hard to do any goood blacksmithing on this anvil. If this were an anvil with a tool steel face, it would be a good candidate forĮxtensive repair of those edges. The anvil above has a cast iron anvil's typically short horn, but this one is in pretty good shape and it is well roundedĬompared to other cast iron anvils that I have seen.īut, the edges are badly chewed up. See that both edges of both anvils are really chipped badly. Here are four pictures of two different anvils that I'd consider to be pretty bad. But, even if there is some chipping of the edges, as long as you can findĪn area a couple of inches long on both the close and far sides of the anvil, you can still do good work with it. So, if the edges areĪLL chipped off this presents a problem. The edges of the anvil are important to a blacksmith because they are used to start shoulders. But, the horn is usually a lot softer, so be careful there until you get a feel for how hard it is. The face of the anvil is usually pretty hard, so you shouldn't have much trouble with digging in to that surface with Of course, if you have an angle grinder you can speed this process up a lot. Once the rust is mostly gone, switch to 150 grit sandpaper to Is to sand the rust off with some 60 grit sandpaper. If the face of the anvil (the main work surface) is fairly smooth and if the horn is pretty much intact, all I'd do I just acquired a vanadium steel 70# anvil in as found condition.Īny suggestions as first steps in putting it into service? It has been outside for years in Montana. Here's a Question about preparing a newly acquired anvil for use. Unfortunately,it may not be available anymore, but you might try to get one on E-bay or look for a used one. See the HF 110# anvil link above, for my opinions. Recently, I heard about a 110# cast steel anvil that sells "brand new" for less than $100. Here are a couple of pictures of that anvil, one with the face showing and one with the base-trueing complete while the anvil is still mounted on the mill.Īnvil upside down on Mill for leveling the base The owner wanted the base to be made parallel to the face, so, after grinding, I turned the anvil upside down and mounted it on the vertical mill. This one required removal of 101.25 thousandths of an inch of material from the face. In May of 2004, I completed grinding to the 23rd anvil to cross my grinder. I don't reweld the faces myself (yet), I would have that done by friends who have that skill if I needed it done. This process does a great job of returning the face to "like new" or close to new condition. These anvils on my own 8" X 20" Surface Grinder. Can you guess which one it is?Īlthough you can't see the faces of the anvils very well in this picture, I have ground the faces on several of One of the anvils in the picture is made from sheet metal. The weights of my REAL anvils vary from as little as 9 ounces to as much as 194 pounds.Īnvils are constructed from various materials ranging from cast iron to wrought iron with a tool steel face to solid An anvil that I paid $50 for in 1987 would go for at least $350 today (in 2017). Now! And, of course, there are now a few railroad rail anvils around here, too.īut, regarding REAL anvils, I have paid as little as $25 for one and as much as $200.Īnvil prices have soared over the last few years. HF 110# cast steel anvil Leonard's 10 Kg Anvil Contact UsĪnvils Made From Sections of Railroad RailĪnswers to the Forging and ABANA Trivia Crossword PuzzleĪbove you can see some of the anvils that I have collected over the years.Īs I looked at that picture, in 2013, I was surprised to see that it's only about 2/3 of the collection that I have Home Back to Blacksmithing Grinding Anvil Faces Anvils Pete's Anvil Page Last Revised: April 18, 2020
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